Just as eating in restaurants is about more than food, being a reviewer involves more than writing. These principles are illustrated constantly in Reichl's account of her six years as a restaurant critic for the New York Times. She devotes much of the book to how she hid her identity by creating disguises and accompanying personalities when dining out and the effects these had on her family and friends. The jealousies and infighting at the Times, an unpleasant place to work according to the author, are yet another problem. Nevertheless, her tale is the most entertaining of her three memoirs because of her enthusiasm for good food and her love of the diversity and romance of her native city.